Howdy there friends!
I’m back, and have had so many amazing adventures since I last wrote. I’m in Athens right now, and will try and get a new posting together before I leave. First I would just like to say thank-you so much for your comments. They were so encouraging and inspiring that I printed them off in Pisa and read them when I am feeling overwhelmed, etc. Thank-you so much – they mean a lot, and I definitely appreciate them. Please keep on posting.
I last posted at about 2 am on the morning of Monday, February 19, 2007. After a good sleep I spent the next day in meetings at Corrymeela learning more about what they do and how they do it, and I am impressed at the dedication of the staff there. I also got my Eurail pass in the mail, and decided to leave on Wednesday. That afternoon, I decided to go for a hike. When I first arrived in Ballycastle on the coast of Northern Ireland, I set my eyes on the highest, farthest place that I could see and determined that I would stand on top of it, and I decided to do it this day. It was mid-afternoon by the time I started, so I jogged much of the way, jumping from rock to rock, getting wet and dirty in mud puddles, scaling hills, navigating the coastline, running along with grazing sheep, and singing songs all the while. As I got nearer I realized that I would have to do quite a bit of climbing, but I was not deterred, and began making my way up the ascent. It was beautiful, but it was extremely windy and rainy – furiously so, as well as quite cold, and I could barely hear my own voice. I eventually reached the top of a massive plateau, and discovered a beautiful lake (a loch) nestled on the top of the big hills. It was amazing, and I spent a little time just sitting beside it in and running my hands through the water. I had to keep going if I wanted to make it back before it got completely dark, so I continued jogging upward, until I reached the highest summit my eyes had seen. I had done it in about an hour and a half, and was pleasantly surprised. I had been thinking on the way up about how the wind and rain grew fiercer as I neared my goal, and I wondered if that was also true in life. Some would say that constant resistance is a means of hinting that you should turn back, and is a sign that you are traveling in the wrong direction, but others would say it is only a test before acheiving your goals, and is a sign that you are traveling in the right direction I am not sure. Anyway, when I reached the top the wind was so fierce that I had to hold tightly to my backpack to keep it from blowing over the edge of the cliffs, and I had to lay down behind a rock to keep from losing my balance and being blown over the cliff as well. The rain soaked me to the bone, but I didn’t care. I looked down hundreds of feet into the crashing waves, and then stood up and sang ‘How Great Thou Art’ at the top of my lungs, as well as several other songs. I also did some thinking, and just took it all in for a bit. It was amazing. I was one man, towering above all that I could see, standing alone in the midst of the raging elements, and worshiping the Creator of it all. It was quite an experience. I couldn’t spend much time up there since it would soon be dark, and it wasn’t really feasible to do any writing (my journal would’ve either been soaked or blown away), so I started jogging it back down after about 15-20 minutes on top. I did some happy daydreaming as I headed down, such as I had not done in a while. Dreams that all people probably have deep inside – about being a hero, saving the world, getting the girl, etc., and it was really neat. I later learned the summit I had climbed was called Fairhead, and an Irishman later told me that it was very dangerous to climb it alone and that several people had lost their lives doing it, even just falling into crevaces on the way up. I hadn’t really talked to anyone about doing it, and had no idea of the danger. No one ever told me that it couldn’t or shouldn’t be done, or that I stood a chance of losing my life doing it, so I just set my mind to do it and did it. It reminds me of a quote – ‘Those who are saying it can’t be done are constantly being surpassed by those who are doing it.’ Anyway, I spent the evening talking with Jason and reading a science fiction book that I saw and was attracted to (I hadn’t just picked up a book for fun in quite a long time, and I really enjoyed losing myself in a story), and then we had an amazing evening worship session led by Jason’s wife Nikki, and Jason, Nikki, and I had a really deep and personal discussion for a while afterwards. I think we all have a deep and desperate craving to connect with other people on a very personal level, and it is so fulfilling to be able to do so. That was one of the neatest things about my experience at Corrymeela – the ability to do that. The next day I spent the morning scrubbing walls with Jason (I had mostly been doing work of this nature at Corrymeela, since I couldn’t get a criminal records check done in time, and that was necessary to be a part of the real work that Corrymeela does – working with groups to bring about peace and understanding in Ireland – but I was still having a great time. There is something really rewarding about just doing simple service and being the guy behind the scenes who sweeps the floors, washes the windows, scrubs the walls, does the dishes, helps make the food, etc., and it had been a long time since I had been able to just do simple manual labor. I enjoyed it a lot, and had the time of my life just daydreaming, singing, thinking, and working.), and we had a great time talking, etc. After lunch I sat on one of the couches there and spent part of the afternoon just sitting there with Kai’s 3 year old son Gabriel (Kai is one of the main people at Corrymeela) and reading stories together and talking. He had the cutest little Irish accent, and I got to feel like a big brother as we just hung out together – buddies. It reminded me of some of my most special memories when my grandparents used to read to me. I don’t think we often realize how much of a difference we make in someone’s life by just giving them a little of our undivided attention and genuinely caring. It has changed my life, and I hope I can do the same for others. After spending the early afternoon reading with Gabriel, Jason and I went hiking to a little town called Ballyvoy, and as we walked down a little Irish country road we stopped to visit someone Jason knew, and ended up spending a couple hours just visiting with him. His name was Peter, and he was renovating an old and rundown house that he had bought awhile ago, and it was easy to tell how much it meant to him. He proudly showed us around his house and his yard, and told us all about what he had done with it, the history of the land, his plans, etc., and I learned so much. I had never thought much about building a house, making my yard, and essentially carving out my own little piece of the earth, but this experience awakened in me a desire to do so. There is something truly great about a man building a dwelling place for himself with his own two hands, tirelessly engaged day after day in a labor of love, placing stones on top of each other, planting trees and flowers, nailing boards together, etc. (it’s easy to tell that I’ve been reading Thoreaus’s ‘Walden’) It was really the quintessential Irish experience for me, and I was so happy from the inside out. The sun was shining, there were flowers on the side of the road, I was with a good friend, and I was listening to a simple Irish man sharing from his heart about something he had devoted himself to and loved. The house and yard were the perfect little Irish dwelling – right out of a dream – and I too fell in love with the place. We left him eventually though, and continued our walk through the quaint Irish countryside (it reminded me of The Shire from the Lord of The Rings) to Ballyvoy and then back. I then spent some time alone and in silence (sometimes you can say more with silence than with words) atop the green cliffs near Corrymeela doing some thinking. I was warm and happy, but I was toying with the idea of going for a swim in the freezing North Irish Sea. I had said I would do it when I first got to Corrymeela, but all the people I mentioned it to said it was a crazy idea, and even the hardy Irish people wouldn’t do it, but things like that don’t usually deter me – they just make me want to do it even more. My good friend Daniel Eriksson likes to quote Benjamin Franklin – ‘Never pass up an experience for the sake of nerves or a nap’, and I decided that I had to be able to say I had swam the North Atlantic in the winter in Ireland, so I put on my swim shorts, Jason came along with the camera, we hiked down the cliffs to the sea, and I took a quick dip. Needless to say, it was very cold, and I was only in for a minute, but I did it, and it was great! I was a little cold walking back up, but I had a nice warm shower and a nice meal, and it was all very nice and rewarding.
At the evening worship session we were each asked to share about an inspiring person/mentor in our lives, and I got up in that room with people from around the world and told them about my dad. He is my hero, and is the best dad that any guy could ask for. He is steady and honest, has a ton of integrity, and always took the time be there for me and the rest of my family. I know he passed up lots of other opportunities so that he could be at home with his family more, and I am so glad he did. He always put the food on the table, kept a roof over our heads, dedicated himself to making our lives as good as they could be, took us on vacations and trips with him, and was there 24/7 if we ever wanted to talk with him or just hang out with him. He made his family priority number one, taught us about God and right and wrong, disciplined us well, gave us a lot of freedom, trust, and responsibility, listened whenever we wanted to talk with him, always kept us laughing, and just set a great example of what it means to be a man. I could write for days and not do justice to the kind of man that he is, but I shared with everyone how he inspired and continues to inspire me, and how he is simply a good man. In my mind my dad is the greatest man walking this earth. A country group called Emerson Drive wrote a song called ‘A Good Man’, and I will share the chorus here:
I wanna be the one, when all is said and done, who lived a good life, loved a good wife, always helped someone in trouble. On the day they lay me down, I want everyone to gather ’round, and say – ‘he was a father, brother, neighbor, and a friend – he was a good man.’
That’s my dad. My dad is a good man, and if I can be even close to the kind of man that he is, then I’ll know that I accomplished something worthwhile with my life. My mom is also amazing, and no amount of words could describe the sacrifices she has made for myself and the rest of my family. Simply put, she is an absolutely amazing woman, and another one of my greatest heroes. I want to marry a girl like her someday. If I can do that, I know I’ll be fine.
Anyway, after that really cool, intimate, and inspiring little meeting I set to work doing some paperwork for the job I want to do in the summer, and after some confusion with the contracts and frustration with the fax machine/scanner, I was feeling a bit down. I then got an e-mail from Genevieve, who I was going to travel Italy with, saying that some things had fallen through, and we wouldn’t have a free place to stay, and that also frustrated me a bit, since I had been planning around that. I then looked at my blog though, and there were already a couple comments on there that brought tears to my eyes and reminded me why I am doing what I am doing. I believe the purpose of life is to love, and that the greatest manifestation of that is in service. I am a Christian (although I don’t think you could categorize my specific beliefs), and I believe in the 2 great commandments that Jesus gave – ‘Love the Lord your God with all of your heart, soul, mind, and strength’, and ‘Love your neighbor as yourself’. Both of those are accomplished by serving one’s fellow man, because in my mind, the best way to serve God is to serve His children/creation, which are our fellow men/women, and the second one is self explanatory. Even if you are not Christian, etc., I am sure you can identify with the deeply fulfilling feeling that comes with serving someone else, and service comes in many different forms. I’m not sure if I’ve shared this already, but I feel that the three keys to living a ‘successful’, meaningful, and fulfilling life are service, acheivement, and gratitude. There is a lot of background to that hypothesis, which I won’t share now, but I just thought I’d throw that in. Anyway, reading the comments that had been posted on my blog made me realize that I was unconsciously serving others right now simply by writing this blog, and I realized that that is the ultimate reason for this whole adventure anyway – to enable me to better serve others, and, as I am discovering, to serve others through my experiences right now also. If I inspire even one person just a little bit, then it has all been worthwhile. I felt so fulfilled and happy to find that it has already been worth everything. Victor Frankl talks about how man simply needs to find meaning in what he does and he can then endure anything, and I found new meaning in what I was doing. That was awesome, moving, and incredibly inspiring! I then talked with my mom for a bit, which was really nice, and also with one of my friends back home, which gave me new energy and inspiration. Later that night I got an e-mail from Genevieve letting me know that even though our original plans for Italy had fallen through, some even better opportunities had arisen, and I was definitely getting excited. I had a good sleep that night, and spent the next morning getting ready to go, etc., and also a couple more frustrating hours trying to get the fax machine/scanner working to send some paperwork to the US, but I eventually got it working. It caused me to leave a bit later than I had planned though, (mid-afternoon) but after some goodbyes I biked to the bus station in Ballycastle, waited an hour or so, and ended up taking the long scenic bus ride, since the direct route had finished running for the day. The bus ride was really nice, and I had an opportunity to observe the beautiful countryside and talk with locals traveling their daily routes. For the last couple hours I was the only person on the bus and it was dark outside, so I just lost myself in thought staring out the window at the dark ocean. Jason and Nikki had given me a few small parting gifts, including a chocolate bar (it was a ‘fair trade’ chocolate bar with orange flavor, and it was delicious), which I slowly nibbled for most of the trip, and it was the most enjoyable chocolate bar I have ever eaten. I did a lot of thinking about the times I had had so far, and was so grateful for everything. My heart was full. I had many good memories behind me, I had new friends, I had people who loved me and whom I loved, I was full of good food from my time at Corrymeela, I was well rested, I was excited about the many new adventures still to be had, I was taking in beautiful new experiences every moment, I was warm and clean, I was healthy, I was filled with peace inside, I had fulfilled some of my dreams, I had been able to make a difference at Corrymeela (it was probably so tiny that it could hardly even be called a ‘widow’s mite’, but I had done what I could, and it felt good), and I had carved out a little niche for myself in Ireland. I have only shared a fraction of the experiences I had in Ireland, but hopefully I have been able to convey a little of how great it was. I had come to Ballycastle feeling quite lost, alone, empty, and overwhelmed, and I had left with a ‘full tank of gas’. Jason especially had been a friend to me when I needed one really badly, and I learned so much from him. I had many great discussions with him, and he really opened my mind in a lot of good ways, helping me to become more socially and environmentally conscious, among other things. He also lives what he believes, and that was one way in which he really inspired me. Anyway…Ballycastle was just an amazing experience in general, and the people at Corrymeela had such a heart for service and for making a difference for good in the world. The atmosphere was the ‘small town – everybody waves and says hi to everybody else, even if they don’t know them’ kind of place, and it was just down home good.
The bus got to Belfast a bit later that evening, and I biked to the hostel I had stayed at when I was there about a week and a half before, and once I got settled in some girls from Sweden and England invited me to go to the pub with them, and I thought it would be a cool way to see another side of Irish culture. Those who know me know that I am not the drinking/partying type, but after talking with a lot of people I found that the pubs in Ireland aren’t like the ones in North America. For us it’s more of a wild party scene, but for the Irish it’s a way of life – it’s a place where you take your family and friends and spend the evening talking together and enjoying each other’s company. Therefore I decided I would go, and we had a great evening getting to know each other, talking, laughing, and as I said, just enjoying each other’s company. I decided to sample a couple genuine Irish beverages as well. I had a decent sleep, and the next day was woken up by an Irish guy and an Australian talking in our 17 person dorm. It turned out that the Irish guy was an old sea captain who had been all over the world, had a high rank in the Irish navy, and was now working on passenger ships. His name was Martin, and he invited the Australian (Axel) and I to go to a couple pubs with him and hang out. I though that it was an experience too good to miss, and so we took him up on it. He showed us things and told us things as we walked that I never would’ve noticed, and I began to realize how tense the situation in Ireland still is. He showed us places where he (a Catholic from the south) would be shot and killed if he walked into, and showed us how even the curbs of the streets were painted with the colors of the respective sides. He took us (walking and by taxi) into the Catholic part of town, down the infamous Falls Road, and then to a secret little pub in an alley there. He went around to a side door, used a secret knock, and the door was carefully opened by one of the bartenders. The pub didn’t actually open to the public for a couple more hours, but he had friends in high places and knew how to get around Belfast. We were able to spend a couple hours there talking with the locals, and Martin told us many an old sea dog’s tale. It was an unforgettable experience. We left the pub when it opened, and he took us back to the Northern Protestant part of town and we visited a couple more pubs there. He had to tread much more lightly there, even though he had friends on both sides. He was starting to get a bit drunk though, and had been drinking all the day before (he had had about $300.00 worth of alcohol the previous day, drinking the entire day away, and he had planned to do the same thing that day as well.), and I didn’t like the way things were going, (he was getting pretty perverse, and I had had enough of listening to garbage) so I tried to get him off of his wild tales of adventure and onto something more serious. We started talking about life philosophies, and he told us why he lives the way he does (it is very deep and personal, and I don’t feel right sharing it, so I won’t), and it succeeded in changing his state of mind. I talked to him about living every moment for all that it’s worth, etc., and he ended up walking away from his beer and deciding to not get drunk that day. Axel and I were definitely the wrong companions for a drinking spree, but hopefully we were able to do some good. We split up with Martin for the day, and I had a nap for most of the afternoon, then went out and bought some groceries with Axel and we made a meal back at the hostel kitchen. He was feeling really sick, and had been so for nearly 2 weeks, so he was a bit grumpy and didn’t like the way I made the food, despite the fact that he didn’t help too much, and he got a bit mad at me. We worked it out though, and I did some deep thinking and writing that evening. I really don’t think I had been my best self that day, and I was determined to do better. I could’ve done so much more good than I did. I didn’t really do bad, but I didn’t really do good either. I was learning a lot though. Martin bought me a kebap (not a shishkebab, but a Turkish kebap, which is basically a pita full of meat), and we watched some tv together, and then a movie called ‘Sniper’. A lot happened that day that made me draw within myself a bit, so I was much more guarded during the evening, and I think I came across as being a bit cold, but I was trying to find a balance. I am learning that there is a line where you must put up some barriers or you will be taken advantage of. You must set a standard or you will be blown about by the wind. You can’t be selfish, but you can’t be a doormat either. I wanted to have a genuine and amazing Irish experience that day, and I did, but I was trying so hard to be nice and friendly that I hung out with Martin even after his conversation got really nasty and he started mistreating the people around him. I eventually put a stop to it, but I should’ve done it sooner. Oh well, lessons learned. I met a really neat guy named Fraser that evening, and he was a fellow Canadian who had been backpacking and Eurailing around Europe for a few months, and we instantly clicked. Just the fact that we were both Canadian gave us a huge pool of common knowledge and conversation, and we were instant friends. After a good sleep that night I went exploring in Belfast, wandering through old bookshops, sitting in a BBC exhibit at the Queen’s University and reading the ‘Federalist Papers’, etc., and it was really cool. Fraser and I spent the late afternoon talking about our experiences in Europe, and I learned a lot of useful things from him. We then made supper together (I had been eating rice for the past couple days. I would have rice with sugar sprinkled on it for breakfast, and rice with artificial chicken ‘gravy’ for lunch and supper), and spent the evening walking around Belfast some more. We saw so many neat things, including a bunch of young boys having their own little political activist rally in a back alley, singing patriotic songs together to rouse their countrymen and drive out their opponents. These boys were probably 10 years old, but prejudice had already set in deeply. The wounds between North and South will still take time to heal. We found a pub where they were playing some music that we both knew, and we stood in a corner watching things and just rocking out and singing along to the songs, and it was a great time. You don’t need to be drunk to have fun, even though most travelers seem to think that you do. Back at the hostel we met a group of 4 American girls, and we played a game called ‘Catchphrase’ with them for a few hours, having many good laughs. We were going to go visit Belfast Castle with them the next day, but we had a mix-up and we didn’t meet up with each other, so Fraser and I walked a couple hours to the Castle (it was on the edge of the city on a hill called Napoleon’s Nose, and we spent some time there wandering around the grounds and exploring the inside), then took a bus and walked back to the hostel. He had to catch a plane to England that afternoon, so we walked to the bus station and played some guitar (he was traveling with a guitar), then he took the bus to the airport. I bought a couple books – ‘Dubliners’, and ‘The Old Man And The Sea’, and spent the rest of the afternoon reading Dubliners and talking with Axel. I had found him hard to be around because he seemed to be so depressed, but I finally decided to stop being selfish and try to cheer him up, which I think I accomplished. He was traveling the world, but a lot of things had gone ‘wrong’, and he was taking it hard. I had been there though, and we connected, and it was rewarding. I spent the evening reading the entire first book of ‘The Brittanica Great Books Of The Western World Set’, called ‘The Great Conversation’, and it was absolutely amazing! I would heartily recommend it to anyone who is at all interested in what it means to have an education. I thought it was so cool that they had the Great Books Set in the hostel library. I was really inspired after reading it, and learned so much.
The next day I slept in, packed up, and caught a bus to Dublin, where I biked around for a bit, checked out a few different hostels, and found the cheapest one, where I decided to spend the night. I then walked around Dublin for a bit, and went back to the hostel after it had gotten dark. In my room there were people from Croatia, Bulgaria, France, etc., and we had some interesting conversation. I had some food (bread from Corrymeela that was getting a bit moldy, pitas – which I had found abandoned at the previous hostel, chocolate spread – makes anything into a delicious dessert, bananas, carrots, and pizza spices. Usually people leave free food at hostels if they can’t finish it, so I had been eating that, and Jason had given me some food from the Corrymeela stockpile), read the entire ‘The Old Man And The Sea’, and had to leave the room because a few of the people were smoking – even though it was a non-smoking room – (I have gotten used to breathing second hand smoke in Europe, but this was the worst yet) and I wasn’t able to breathe too well, and I then hung out in the lounge, watched a movie, talked with some of the people who lived at the hostel, and did some writing. I have given up on trying to tell the stories of the people I meet, because it is too exhaustive for my present means, but I have definitely met some neat people. The next morning I got up and left the hostel (I didn’t bother showering because the bathrooms were pretty nasty, even by my standards, which have gotten pretty low during my time in Europe), and after finding out that it would cost 7 Euros to take a bus to the Dublin Airport, I decided to bike there. I had plenty of time, and I really didn’t want to spend the money, so I figured I could find my way there – it was only around 15 kms or less. I was okay for about half of the way, but then I got onto the major highways, and it got very dangerous. Lots of vehicles were honking at me, even though I was hugging the shoulder of the highway as tightly as I could. It had rained the night before and there was some mud puddles, and at one point I had to cross a merging lane, but there was a mud puddle near the shoulder, and my bike (with it’s smooth tires) lost control and I had a nasty wipeout, sliding across the pavement on my side. I had been going fairly fast, and I tore up my left side pretty good. I also bent up my bike, and that was the most frustrating part. I was lucky that I didn’t get run over, but as soon as I could collect myself I got up and pulled my bike to the ditch, where I assessed the damage. I had bent the whole handlebar inwards, had messed up something with the brakes, and had bent the back tire out of shape. I was really angry and frustrated, because things had been going so well and now they were a mess, and I wasn’t in the best state of mind. I tried to keep on pedaling, but the back tire wouldn’t move. I stood on the side of the highway helpless for a few minutes, hoping desperately that someone would slow down and help me, but everyone just drove on past, staring at me, pointing, or honking. I realized that no one was going to help me, so I swallowed my frustration, bit my lip and held back the tears, and determined to get myself out of this mess. I was bleeding pretty good and had ripped another pair of pants, as well as gotten quite dirty, so I set about cleaning the cuts and then putting on band-aids. They wouldn’t stay on because the blood was flowing too freely, so I took some hockey tape that I had brought with me and wrapped it around my arm to hold the band-aids on and act as a sort of band-aid itself. The pain didn’t bother me – physical pain doesn’t really bother me anymore – it was just annoying. After I had cleaned myself up enough to work, I sat down and started taking things on my bike apart, trying to make it work. I knew that I wouldn’t be biking to the airport. Eventually I discovered the problem, and after disconnecting the brakes and a couple other things, I began trying to bend the bike tire into shape. I cut myself a couple times and didn’t even notice it until I started getting blood on stuff again, so I had to clean myself up some more. It was hard work, and seemed impossible and overwhelming at the time, but I kept trying, praying for God’s help, and eventually I was able to get the wheel to the point where it would turn, even though there was still some friction. I wished I had taken the bus and just paid the 7 Euros, because I had now done much more than 7 Euros worth of damage to my bicycle, clothes, and person, and had wasted over an hour of time as well. After being angry for a little while though, I realized that this wasn’t even about the 7 Euros. It was about something far more priceless – character. I was reminded of ‘The Old Man And The Sea’, which I had read the evening before. In that book, an old man goes way out to sea, farther than he knows he should, all in an effort to catch the biggest fish he has ever caught, since he hadn’t caught anything for weeks and was starting to starve. He eventually hooks it, but it drags him and his little boat for days before he is finally able to kill it, and he is nearly dead from dehydration, starvation, exhaustion, and wounds sustained in the process, and he is also now much further out to see. He lashes the fish to the side of his boat (he can’t put inside because it is bigger than the boat), and begins the journey home. The blood from the fish in the water begins to attract sharks however, and although he is able to kill several sharks with harpoons, paddles, etc., he soon exhausts his supply of weapons and the sharks enjoy their feast, eating the entire fish on the way back to the harbor. All that is left is the skeleton. He comes back nearly dead several days later, with nothing to show for all of his efforts. Actually, though, he has gained something far more valuable than any fish – character. He gambled, won, and lost it all, but he made a decision to never give up, no matter how hard it got, and even though his very best efforts were unsuccessful in the end, that was not the important part. The important part was that he chose to give it all he had and never give up – to strive with his last ounce of courage, and when all was lost, to get up and keep going. Thinking about that inspired me. I had ‘went to far out to sea’ in an effort to save money, and I ended up losing more than I gained by my efforts. I wrecked my bike, my clothes, and myself, but I decided that I would not give up. I would brace myself like a man and keep going. I would just pick myself right back up again. Nothing else mattered but making the decision and seeing it through. I got my bike into decent shape so that it would move, got everything together, and began walking the last few kilometers to the airport. I knew that I would be okay, and had learned a valuable lesson. I had actually gained far more than I had lost out of the whole experience, and I sang happy songs with a smile on my face as I walked, and my heart was full of gratitude for all of the blessings in my life. I try to remind myself several times every day how blessed I am to simply be able to breathe, to think, to see, to hear, to taste, to touch, to smell, to feel, to walk, to be healthy, to have blood flowing through my veins, etc., but I don’t think you can ever be too grateful, and just reminding myself of my many blessings brought a big ole’ smile to my face. I was living the dream, and I was free. Life was great! I made it to the airport awhile later, walking my bike on the side of the highway, and I made quite a sight when I got there. I was walking a bike loaded down with luggage, the tire rubbed on the frame a little every time it turned, my arm was taped up, I had blood on my clothes, I was covered with dirt and bike grease, and my pants were torn, but I didn’t care. I went into a bathroom and cleaned myself up, making a bit of a mess in the bathroom, but that couldn’t be helped. I then ended up waiting for a couple hours, eating the last of my food. When it came time to go through all the security, etc., I had to take my bike apart, but they had no box for it, so it would have to go the way it was. I hoped for the best, but it wasn’t in the greatest shape anyway, so I wasn’t too worried. I also found that my luggage was several kilos overweight (I had bought my ticket with RyanAir, and although the ticket was only 5 Euros plus tax, there were a lot of other restrictions to squeeze the money out of the customer) and they wanted to charge me a lot of money, so I took it out and repacked it, and put on several layers of clothing, as well as carrying a bunch of stuff on my person and transferring as much as I could to my carry-on bag. It still ended up being a few kilos over, so I bargained with the lady in charge for a while and got them to knock off a few kilos, but I still ended up having to pay 24 Euros for overweight fees. I then waited in line for an hour or so, talked with a nice Italian couple, and eventually we were able to board the plane. The plane was originally going to leave in the early morning, so I would have time to get to Bologna and meet up with Genevieve before it got too late, but a bunch of stuff happened with the airline and they delayed the flight by about 10 hours, so we got going at about 6 pm or so. It was too dark to see much, and I was exhausted already, so I slept a bit, then read a travel guidebook that I had, which got me all excited again. I knew that it would be late by the time we landed, and there was a bit of traveling to be done before I would reach Bologna, so I debated sleeping at the airport and then going to the city in the morning (I wasn’t sure how bad it would be at night), but I decided to go for it anyway. One thing I was learning that was proving very effective was to spend even a few moments making a backup plan or two. I usually just go into things and figure them out as I go, but I was having to make so many ‘blind faith’ decisions every day that it helped if I at least thought of a plan B and/or C beforehand so that I was ready to take action if my first plan didn’t work out, otherwise I would get overwhelmed too easily. It’s probably not something that most people need to do, and I’ve never needed to do it previously, but the kind of trip that I’m doing requires it for sanity’s sake. Therefore, I had my backup plans ready if I couldn’t make it to Bologna that night. Anyway, once we landed at about 9:30 pm I collected my things and made straight for the bus station, but they had changed the schedule from what I had looked at online, so there was no bus going to Bologna that night. I asked around and was able to discover (from conversation in broken English) that there was a bus going to the train staion in Forli (the town about an hour outside of Bologna that I had flown into), and a train that left from Forli to Bologna that night. It would be the last bus and the last train, so the timing would have to be perfect, but I decided to go for it. I waited for awhile and tried to call Genevieve, but the phone wouldn’t work. I met an Italian girl (a student in Bologna) who spoke English and was waiting for the bus as well, and we talked for a bit. A couple of the airport employees who had just gotten off work offered to give us a ride to the train station, saying that the bus probably wasn’t going to come, but they couldn’t take my bike, so I stayed and prayed that the bus would come, while Veronica (that was the Italian girl’s name) went with them. It was looking like the bus might not show up, but my heart leaped at the last moment when the bus came rolling in. I was a grateful man as I rode to the train station, and I met Veronica again there. We talked about a bunch of stuff, and she taught me some Italian as well. We then rode the train together to Bologna, and she was extremely helpful. She was a bit of a punk girl with all the piercings, etc., but she was really nice, and we had some great conversation as well. I don’t know how things would’ve turned out if she hadn’t been there to help me out. I was loving Italy already. Once we got to Bologna at about 11:30 pm, Veronica let me use her cell phone to call the woman who owned the apartment that Genevieve was staying at, and that I would be able to stay at for the night, and she gave me directions to get there. I walked the streets of a foreign city in a foreign land at night, but I was feeling great and unafraid (Veronica had familiarized me a bit with the city, so I felt decently comfortable, and I knew I was tough if it came down to a fight), and after about 15 minutes of walking I made it to the apartment and Genevieve let me in. She had just been to Greece and brought some food back with her, so she let me help myself, and we ended up talking until about 2:30 am, getting to know each other, etc., since we had only talked for about 15 minutes on the Eiffel Tower before that. I discovered that she was about 10 years older than me, but we had a lot in common and we were able to connect intellectually as well, although we had rather different opinions on a lot of things. She wrote curriculum for non-profit organizations, and had done a lot of work on writing courses on AIDS. The apartment was really nice and I had my own big room, so I had a good sleep until about 10 am the next morning, then had a shower and cleaned myself up some more, repacked all of my stuff, helped Genevieve clean up the apartment, listened to music the whole time on Genevieve’s computer (good ole’ Johnny Cash), and got all ready to go. I had started feeling sick the day before, and was definitely feeling the cold coming on now. Anyway…We had hoped to base ourselves out of this apartment while we traveled Italy, but it had been rented out and we had to leave that day. I was hoping to at least leave my bike there while we traveled Italy though, and Laurel (the girl who owned the apartment) had offered to let me leave it, but we couldn’t open the place that I was supposed to store it (we didn’t have the keys), so I had to take it with me to Florence. Genevieve took a taxi to the train station, while I walked my bike, but once we got there they wouldn’t let me take my bike on the train. We talked to a few different people, and paid a few extra fees, and they eventually let me bring it. The train ride to Florence was amazing, and the scenery was right out of a storybook. It was a beautiful day, and we passed rolling hills, quaint little towns with clothes hanging out on the balconies to dry, vineyards, and so much that it would take far too much time to describe it all. I was quite enraptured. Once we reached Florence, we were met at the train station by a friend of one of Genevieve’s friends, a guy whom she had never met before, but who had offered to let us stay with him after some negotiating between friends. His name was Jeff, and I liked him instantly. We tried to put my bike on the bus to get to his place, but there was no room, so we walked to another bus stop nearby, and had the same thing happen. We tried this a few times, but when we finally did manage to get it on, the driver came and told me to take it off. His place was a bit of walk, because it was actually just outside the Florence city limits, but we had no other alternative than to walk it, so we set out. It was dark by this time, but the city was beautiful, and it was nice to get to know Jeff. He had a doctorate in astronomy, and was working on building a telescope in Florence to be used in an American observatory. He bought us some Italian treats as we walked, but eventually they decided to get a taxi. I was used to roughing it, and wouldn’t have minded if we had to walk 10 miles, but I think Jeff just wanted to get us home, so we got a taxi that would take my bike, and it was surprisingly cheap. Once at his place, (it was a nice house with a porch and a beautiful view of the city) I locked up my bike, we got settled in (Genevieve would sleep upstairs, and Jeff and I would sleep downstairs – Jeff even insisted on taking the couch, while we pulled his bed apart and each took half), and Jeff made us supper as we got to know each other. We ended up having a great political discussion, and then, after eating leek soup for supper, we went for a walk in some nearby gardens, talking about books and a ton of other things as we went. I really enjoyed being able to interact on a deep level with so many people, and it was a nice island in the midst of a foreing culture. We got to bed late that night, and I felt my sickness getting worse. I was blowing my nose and coughing much of the night, and I ended up being sick for the next week. The next day Genevieve and I went out exploring in Florence, and stopped at a little Italian coffee shop in a back alley, drinking the coffee and taking in the life of the city. We waited in a square there to meet up with one of her friends who was traveling Italy, and a guy who was traveling with this friend. We met them at about 11 am that morning (Wednesday) – the girl, Genevieve’s friend from Canada, was named Sheryl, and the guy, a native Italian who was showing Sheryl around, was named Martino. We walked around Florence for a couple hours with them, and the girls were busy catching up on things, so I was able to get to know Martino and learn about Italy from an Italian perspective, and that was really neat. He showed us many of his favorite things in Florence, and we eventually decided to go to the Uffizzi Art Gallery, where we split up and I spent about 2 1/2 hours. There were a couple paintings so beautiful that they made me cry – I could identify so strongly with the emotions protrayed by the characters represented. They were both paintings of the birth of Christ, and in one of them the chief wise man was kneeling in deepest humility and kissing the feet of the baby Jesus, and in the other there was a girl standing off to the side with the most grateful look on her face, as if she had been rejected all her life and was now finding acceptance. I can’t put into words how they made me felt, or accurately describe them, but suffice it to say that they were amazing. After leaving the museum I waited outside for the others and began honing my bartering skills with some vendors outside, getting them to bring a picture of the Sistine Chapel from 10 Euros down to 3, but I didn’t end up taking it. There were people standing outside the museum that painted themselves from head to toe and stood in poses looking like statues for money, and it was quite entertaining to watch them at their antics. I really don’t think I can accurately capture how different Italian culture is from North American culture – it simply needs to be experienced. Everything is tightly packed together, people make up the rules of the road as they go (you have to simply step out onto the street and force the drivers to stop for you, because they won’t stop otherwise, and traffic signals are often ignored), the streets are covered with vendors grabbing at you and trying to sell you things, there are many street performers trying to get money from tourists (and this is the off-season), there are no big grocery stores (only tiny shops where you can buy a few items, so you have to do a lot of shopping to get all that you need), there are monuments, statues, and cathedrals almost everywhere you look, the people are a bit pushy and buses are packed like sardine cans, and there are so many other things. I know that I am writing quickly and not taking the time to give much background, but I simply don’t have time right now to explain everything and make it all perfect. You’ll just have to bear with me and my imperfection.
Once the girls came out of the museum we waited for Martino for a while and tried to contact him (they all had cell phones and did a lot of text messaging), but he wouldn’t respond, so we eventually left and had some cheap Italian pizza. I liked it, but the girls didn’t like it too much. I was beginning to discover that they (especially Sheryl) were quite picky and whiny. I had stopped caring about having things always go my way a long time ago already, and I was just grateful to have food. I will admit that the pizza didn’t stack up too well against pizzas that I had later though. Martino eventually joined us, and we waited while he ate, then continued exploring the city. We visited the Duomo, the Baptistry, some government buildings, a bunch of statues (including a very accurate imitation of Michelangelo’s ‘David’), and many other things, and Genevieve and I also bought some groceries, but when the others wanted to go to a nice restaurant and a bar for supper, I headed back to Jeff’s place. We made supper together and hung out for the evening, and he took me to his observatory to use the internet there. On the way there he pointed out to me the house where Galileo had lived in exile after renouncing his works, showed me the valley where he had done many of his experiments, and also showed me a tree that was so old it had stood even in Galileo’s time, and so I was able to look at the same tree that the famous astronomer had once looked at and sat under. Later that night, when Genevieve came back, we had some Chai tea, and I wasn’t able to sleep that night, which I later realized was due to the caffeine in the tea. My body is not used to caffeine after all my traveling without it. I was absolutely exhausted the next morning – no sleep combined with a cold, plus Jeff had a cat that lived in his house, and I’m not used to indoor pets, so I didn’t feel like going out, but Martino had offered to take us into the countryside of Tuscany in his car, and I didn’t feel like passing up the opportunity, so I joined Genevieve, Sheryl, and Martino and we drove for about an hour to Sienna, taking in amazing scenery on a beautiful day. We passed castles, villages, vineyards, rolling hills and mountains, and eventually reached Sienna – a little walled city built upon a steep hill. We weren’t able to take Martino’s car too far inside the city because the streets were so narrow and steep, so we abandoned it and walked around for a few hours. It was so picturesque! What a beautiful and amazing little city! After some exploring, Genevieve and I sat down in a square and had our packed lunches while the others went out for lunch. I could tell that Genevieve wasn’t used to my cheap backpacking ways (she traveled in a bit more comfort), and I think she was a bit embarrassed by me. Anyway, we lost Martino again (he was out practicing his lines for a play that he was doing that weekend – he was a performer), but eventually met up with him, and we then went back to the car and drove around some more. The girls were talking behind his back constantly, and were complaining a lot, and I was frustrated at how selfish they were being. Everything seemed to be about them and how their lives were so hard, etc., and they had to make sure the entire world knew about it every time something bothered them. Sheryl seemed to be quite spoiled, and since she was pretty and quite wealthy, she was used to having everything her way and couldn’t understand why it didn’t always work out like that. Life is not about us – it’s about others, and it frustrates me when people are so wrapped up in themselves that they don’t notice the people around them, and the fact that they have needs and feelings too. I felt bad for poor Martino, and for everyone and everything else that Sheryl was bashing. Perhaps I am being too judgmental though, and I’m definitely not perfect either. Simply the fact that I say it annoyed me is evidence of the fact that I am more concerned about the way other’s actions make me feel than actually stepping out and trying to help them. I am trying though, and realizing something is one of the first steps to improving it. I was also feeling miserable because of no sleep and feeling really stuffed up with a sore throat, runny nose, and coughing. Apparently Martino had been making some sexual advances on Sheryl though, which she didn’t welcome, as she already had a boyfriend, and that was probably making her a bit frazzled. I really liked Martino, since he was a nice and easygoing guy, but I didn’t want him messing around with Sheryl against her will, so I essentially put myself between the two of them and told Sheryl that I was at her service should she ever request it. A lady is still a lady and a princess, no matter how whiny, spoiled, or annoying she is. Maybe I’m just an old-fashioned country boy, but that’s the way I see it. Guys take care of girls.
Anyway, we drove around the Tuscan countryside for a few hours, but I could hardly keep my eyes open, so I had to nap a fair bit of the time. We eventually stopped at a vineyard and walked around, also taking a look at all of the wine-making equipment, and one of the staff there let us do some free tasting of a selection of different wines, and we bought a bottle of the best one for Jeff as a thank-you. (we had also bought groceries for him and a few other things, but it was small compensation for his kindness at letting some strangers stay with him) We also visited an olive press in the same area, and were able to sample some fresh olive oil. After more wandering around in the area, we drove to a few small towns and just observed Italian life, walking into little shops (butchers, dessert shops, etc.), and taking it in, but Sheryl didn’t really want to be doing any of it – she had just wanted to do wine-tasting all day and made sure we all knew it, so she and Genevieve sat in the car much of the time while Martino and I walked around, and Martino even treated me to some nice dessert. After visiting several small towns we found a really nice and quaint little Italian restaurant, and I decided to treat myself to some good Italian food, since we were in Italy after all. There was a 5 Euro fee per person simply to sit down, (almost every place in Italy charges quite a fee just to sit down) and I ordered one of the cheapest pastas on the menu, but it was really good, and I ate what the others couldn’t finish of their food. (yes, I know that it isn’t evidence of the best manners, but I have put aside cultural refinement for the duration of my trip in order to survive) We even split a couple desserts, which were excellent as well. That finished, we drove back to Florence and went back to our respective places. I had a much better sleep that night, but I was still coughing much of the night and blowing my nose, and I could tell that I was starting to make both Jeff and Genevieve sick as well, which made me feel bad. Jeff was so kind, and did everything to make us feel as welcome as possible, and he was so enjoyable to talk to. Just a middle-aged single Canadian astronomer, and he was such a neat guy. He even offered to take care of my bike for me while I traveled Europe, but then figured that it would be better if we simply shipped it home from Florence, but the cost was going to be quite high, and since he was flying to Vancouver in a couple weeks, he offered to take it on the plane with him and ship it home to my place in Alberta from there. He would have to stop over for a couple days in both Frankfurt and Hawaii, but was completely willing to drag the bike and stuff around with him. When I started looking into getting all boxed up, etc., he just said to enjoy my trip and he would take care of all that – what an incredible guy! He had known us for just a few short days and hadn’t even seen us much in that span, but he had already let us know that he considered us good friends and that friends of ours (mine and Genevieve’s) were friends of his. I can’t even begin to describe how kind and accommodating he was, and even though he had no religious beliefs, he was more ‘Christian’ than almost any Christian I have ever met. God bless that guy!
The next morning Sheryl came over (Jeff had agreed to let her stay with him as well, even though he didn’t know her either) because she was tired of staying with Martino and dealing with his advances. I didn’t really notice any advances, but apparently they were occurring, and so she decided to ditch Martino and all of the planning they had done for their trip together, spend a couple days with us, and then go home to Switzerland, where she was working as a dental hygienist. Martino was a real gentleman and even drove her to Jeff’s place despite the fact that she chewed him out and ditched him, and he was the picture of politeness. I actually think that he was glad to be rid of her, as there had seemed to be a bit of tension between them. Once we got her settled in we split up to go exploring, and I wandered out into Florence, sitting on the steps of a couple beautiful cathedrals and doing some writing, etc., and just having a nice day. I also wandered around the street vendor stalls and did some bartering (I had started developing some skill with it), getting a nice traveling backpack for only 10 Euros. I also bought some gifts for my family. I didn’t buy any souvenirs for myself – I figure that my shoes will be my best souvenir, and of course I’ve got my pictures and journals as well. I allowed myself to just get lost in Florence, and that was cool. I can’t even begin to describe all that I did and saw, but I’ll just say that I was able to taste what Florence was like, and it was quite a city. That evening, after our exploring, Jeff and I made togas for ourselves out of bedsheets, (the girls didn’t dress up) and we went to a Roman toga party at one of his friends’ apartments. It was packed with people in togas from all over the world, and we had a great time talking, eating Italian food, rocking out to great music, and just enjoying ourselves the good ole’ fashioned Roman way. We left at about 2:30 am, taking a taxi, which we had also done on the way there, since it was quite a distance, and once we got back we talked for another hour. Didn’t get too much sleep that night, but oh well, it was a once-in-a-lifetime experience to go to a Roman toga party in Italy. The next day was Saturday, but Jeff had to work again – he worked a lot. Anyway, the girls and I got ready quickly and then took a train to Pisa, but I was feeling so sick and ‘out of it’ that I wasn’t sociable at all, and I had unfortunately been that way for the past week. I was definitely not my ‘best self’ in Florence, but I tried hard. Once we reached Pisa we wandered the streets and met up at the tower. It is honestly beyond words to describe what it felt like when the leaning tower first came into view above the rooftops of the houses. It was simply amazing, and was definitely worth seeing. We took a ton of pictures there, and then split up. I wandered around some more and did some more bartering, etc., and also stopped at an internet cafe to print off the comments on my blog. I was feeling really tired, frustrated by the people around me, sick, and a bit overwhelmed by the pace of things – no time to slow down, and it was so nice to have the reassuring words of friends to give me courage and cheer me up. I really hope that I am not coming across as depressed or self-absorbed, etc., in this blog, because there were a hundred good times for every bad one, and I was having the time of my life, but I guess human have a tendency to naturally want to describe the bad. I apologize for this tendency if it is evident in my writing, and once again ask my readers to bear with me. Anyway, I left Pisa at about 5:30 pm or so, took the train back to Florence, and then took the bus and walked back to Jeff’s place, where we made some supper (Jeff is a great cook!), and then met up with some of his work colleagues at the observatory to drive to a big hill outside of Florence and observe a full lunar eclipse. I figured that this was another opportunity I could not pass up – experts in astronomy from around the world who all worked at the Galileo Institute for Astronomy in Florence going to observe a lunar eclipse at an observatory outside of Florence. They brought some high-tech equipment with them, and after a half hour drive we were there. I got to know some of them really well, and they were so nice and fascinating. We watched a presentation about eclipses given first in English and then in Italian, and I was able to understand the substance of the Italian part because of some excellent diagrams. We then wandered around this fascinating place where they had gathered and took pictures, looked through telescopes, talked, etc. for a couple hours. Unfortunately it was a completely cloudy night and we could see nothing in the sky – no stars, no eclipse, no nothing, but oh well, it was still an amazing time. At about 1 am we all went into an inflatable planetarium, and a couple of the astronomers gave us an on-the-spot presentation about the stars, orbits, eclipses, seasons, etc., and it was just amazing. I could only sit back and try to take it all in – I was in the company of giants. They made me feel like part of a family though, and I was really starting to feel at home in Florence and with Jeff and his friends. It was so neat. We drove back at about 1:45 am, Jeff and I had supper and talked with the girls a bit, then went to sleep. I had given Sheryl the half of Jeff’s bed that I was using, and now slept on the floor, but I had my little inflatable mattress, so I slept fine, although my cold still kept me up much of the night. The next day, Sunday, Sheryl left, and I decided to take a train to Venice, but Genevieve just wanted to relax back at Jeff’s place. I wouldn’t have minded doing that, but we were planning on going to Rome on Monday and I really wanted to see Venice, so this was the day to do it. I met a really cool American couple and we talked about Italy, etc., for much of the ride. It was about a 4 hour ride. (I have given up trying to mention all of the amazing people that I meet, because I meet several every day) I had dreamed all my life of seeing Venice, and I almost lost my breath when the city first came into view through the train windows. The sun was so bright that it was blinding, and its warmth on my shoulders brought me so much joy and peace. One of my favorite songs is John Denver’s ‘Sunshine On My Shoulders’, and it has gained so much new meaning for me during my time in Europe. I just break out singing it every time I feel the warm sun on my shoulders, and I sing quite a bit in general. Anyway, once I stepped out of the train station tears welled up in my eyes. It was possibly the most beautiful sight that I had ever beheld. Canals, people casually walking about the narrow streets, little shops, small and elaborate houses, gondolas lazily drifting about, and sunshine soaking it all, etc. Once again, words are simply not enough. I turned on the video mode on my camera and simply recorded myself saying ‘I am the luckiest man alive’. That was one of the best days of my life, and I just walked the streets of Venice, stopping in shops, meeting people, walking over ancient bridges, losing myself in little side streets, etc. I eventually made my way to Saint Mark’s Cathedral and sat in the square eating some bread and apples with chocolate spread and watching people, pigeons, etc. Then I walked over to the water, which was just off to the side of Saint Mark’s, and I sat down there on the side of the sea on some small stone steps leading into the water with Saint Mark’s just beside me, and I watched gondola drivers hopping along the side of parked gondolas as they parked their own and came ashore, etc. I also just looked out across the water and pondered. Then I decided that it would be really neat to read the entire gospel of Mark in the Bible, so I did. Sunshine on my face, Saint Mark’s in the background, and a lovely Sunday afternoon, and I lost myself in reading about Jesus in the book of Mark. It was so awesome, and I gained quite a bit of insight. Just really amazing. I then walked back, visiting the Rialto Bridge, etc., eating a great gelato (the Italian ice cream, which is better than North American ice cream, and the Venetian gelato was better than that in Florence), and just wandering through the city again, this time in the dark. I also decided to visit the Jewish quarter of the city, which I had been able to read about in Shakespeare’s ‘Merchant of Venice’, and it was pretty cool. I was followed around for awhile by a stray dog, but eventually he left, and I just observed people living their lives as I walked. Back at the train station I sat by the water and just talked to God, and also had a nice little meal (Jeff had bought me some nice Italian food, because he knew I wouldn’t spend the money to buy it for myself, and I really enjoyed it), then took the train back to Florence, spending most of the ride catching up on my journal, because it’s hard to write every night when you’re so busy – other things just keep coming up that you don’t want to miss out on. I also got a little rest. It was about midnight when I got back to Florence, and all the buses had stopped running, so I walked the entire way back to Jeff’s place, all through the city at night. I had gotten quite familiar with the city, and so it was no problem, and it was such a beautiful city. I sang worship as I walked the streets, and it was awesome! I eventually made it back and got a good sleep. The whole day had been pretty much a dream come true. I had been so sick and tired, but I completely forgot about it all during the day and simply lost myself in what I consider the most beautiful city in Europe, and possibly in the world.
I got a good sleep that night and was starting to feel a bit better, but it would be a couple more days before I was completely over it. Anyway, I took my bike apart, separated the stuff that I would need for the rest of my trip and the stuff that I could afford to leave, and then of that, the stuff that I wanted back in Canada and the stuff that I could just give to Jeff. Genevieve and I left Jeff some money, got all ready, had a little lunch with him, and then left. Florence had become like a home to me, and I realized that I was carving out little niches for myself all over the world. We took the train to Rome, and she did a bunch of planning while I slept and looked at the countryside. She likes to know what she is doing before she goes somewhere, while I have been much more spontaneous this trip. She is a really great girl, and is really nice, but we definitely have some major differences. She is bi-sexual, which made things a little awkward, and I think that I was unconsciously judging her, no matter how hard I tried not to. I have several good friends that are homosexual and I don’t mind being around them, so I don’t think it was that so much as a combination of things. On the train ride I lost myself in daydreaming about Roman, barbarian, and Carthaginian armies marching on the same hills and valleys that I was now seeing, about water flowing through the aqueducts to bring life to some of history’s greatest cities, and about poor Roman farmer boys dreaming about carving out a name and a place in the world for themselves on distant frontiers. Anyway, it was dark when we reached Rome, and we had heard a lot of bad stuff about the city, so I was really guarded and protective of myself and Genevieve, and we wandered down some side streets until we found our hostel, but I found an even better one just next door, which I decided to stay at instead. Genevieve still stayed at the original one, but we walked around for a few hours that night, passing walls, tunnels, etc., and eventually found a little pizza shop in a non-tourist part of the city, and we stopped there for some supper at about 10 pm. (Italy has a very different schedule than we do – they take siestas at mid-day, and eat their suppers later in the evening) It was really good, but I was still hungry (as usual), and when I noticed that the people next to us had ordered a cake that was still partly untouched when they left, I asked the waiter if I could just have some. He said yes, and I enjoyed a couple bites of it, but Genevieve was so embarrassed, and she let me know it. I am not normally a really cheap guy, and will treat others to meals, etc., and live by the rules of etiquette, but it is a different world when you are backpacking, and I honestly can’t explain it – it needs to be experienced, and on the rugged level. When having an adventure like I am doing, the ‘superfluous’ rules of society simply don’t matter and you take what you can get when you can get it, within the bounds of integrity of course. I am certainly not suggesting stealing. Anyway, it was evident that Genevieve and I definitely had different budgets and modes of traveling and living, and that was causing some tension. I could not afford to live like she did, and she was embarrassed to live like I did. I felt a little hurt by her comments, but what could I say – I had lost my sense of shame at such things quite a while ago, and was only now realizing how much of a ‘savage’ I had become. I knew that I would have some re-adjusting to do when I got back home. We walked back together, but there was starting to be a bit of a distance between us as we got to know each other better. I wanted to have some deep conversation, but she felt that it was too personal to talk about the meaning of life, etc. I really think I was just tired and sick, because it usually takes a LOT to bother me, and I’m generally proactive (I simply choose to just let things slide rather than let them affect me and the way I feel), but I wasn’t in the best state of mind and found myself just going with the flow of my feelings and being reactive. I was probably more of the problem than anything, but we don’t usually see that at the time. Anyway, back at the hostel I used the free internet, and also got to know some people, then went to bed. They were co-ed dorms, but everyone was very decent and respectful. The next day Genevieve and I split up to do some exploring, and I had an absolutely amazing day. I had found myself really wanting to be alone (I think I get overwhelmed easily when I am feeling sick, and am slightly inverted anyway – I am definitely learning a ton about myself.), and so it was nice to just do things at my own pace. I don’t like to rush around from monument to monument, but like to sit down and write and think, and just experience the ‘spirit’ of a place. I took a metro (the most packed metro I have ever been on – you are pressed almost cheek to cheek with other people, and there is a lot of pushing, shoving, and some name-calling as well) to the Vatican, got free tickets to hear the Pope speak the next day, walked along the side of the Tiber River in the sunshine, passing castles, cathedrals, statues, monuments, bridges, etc., and eventually crossing over to the other side and making my way to the Spanish Steps. I found myself getting very adept at navigating European cities, and perhaps I just looked like a man who knew where he was going, but several tourists stopped and asked me for directions, and it was almost as if I had been to Rome before, because I was able to help them out. If I saw people that looked confused I even walked up to them and helped them out. That was one of the nice things about having no itinerary – I could just take time to help people find where they wanted to get to. I still don’t understand how I was able to find my way around Rome so easily after never having been there before, but I was. I waited in the sunshine on the Spanish Steps for a while (I was hoping to meet up with Brad, because I found that he had ended up deciding to stay in Europe for a few more weeks, and was in Rome at the same time as I was. I had also tried to meet up with him in Venice, but we were unsuccessful. I think he had just had a bout of homesickness in France. He had spent a couple more weeks in Munich, then got an Eurail pass for a month, and was traveling to a few places until mid-March. I was a little angry at first when I found that he had ditched me and then decided to stay, but we e-mailed back and forth and set everything right between us. Anyway, he didn’t end up showing up at the Spanish Steps, so we didn’t end up meeting again.) and had some lunch there, then went exploring again. I visited a few fountains and monuments, including the famous Trevi Fountain, and it was beautiful. I then made my way down to the old Roman ruins of the Colosseum, temples, walls, forum, etc. I watched the filming of a McDonald’s commercial for a bit, wandered through the ruins, and paid the admission fee to get into the Colosseum. The Colosseum and the things it represented were one of the key reasons for the downfall of Rome, in my mind at least, and I was now walking the walls of this tool of destiny. I was really lost in thought and had to sit down and write some things out. I kept thinking about how even the greatest empire that the world had ever known was now nothing but crumbling rocks and dust, and was struck by feelings of meaninglessness, but after sitting down and just writing my thought down into poetry/prose, I was reminded of what was really important, and how a legacy does not consist of piled rocks, but of something far deeper, and that was a reassuring thought. After spending awhile in the Colosseum I walked down to the Circus Maximus, and didn’t even realize I had reached it until I had been there a little while. I thought it would be all walled off with admission fees, but it was basically a public park in the shape of a racetrack, with some ancient buildings off to one side. I laid down in the center of it where Roman chariots used to rumble past, ate some food, took a nap, and wrote part of a song, and it was really nice. I then walked back to the hostel, hung out there for a bit, and got to know one of my new room-mates, a guy from Minnesota who was crazy about hockey, and we clicked right away, talking about the great frozen game for a couple hours. It was like a little piece of home. Genevieve and I met up for a bit and bought some groceries, but she was generally a bit late every time we met up, and I was getting tired of waiting for her. She also constantly stopped and asked people a lot of questions that I thought were pretty self-explanatory, and that took quite a bit of time as well. After hanging out with her a bit I went back to the hostel and spent some time meeting new room-mates and hanging out, and then went to bed. The next day we got up before 6 am, got ready quickly, and, with a couple new friends in tow, (including my buddy from Minnesota and 3 girls) took the metro to the Vatican and waited in a huge line, eventually getting into Saint Peter’s Basilica to hear the Pope speak in Italian, but there was a nearby building where he was going to speak in English afterwards, so we went there instead and waited for a couple hours (we had to be really early to get a place), and I took a nap but started feeling really dizzy and sick during and afterwards. I don’t know what it was, but the world was spinning and out of focus, I felt like throwing up, I was really tired, and I still had my cold and was coughing. I survived though, and it was quite an experience! Everybody in the massive building crowded around the center aisle, where it was expected that the pope would walk down (there were people standing on chairs with people on their shoulders, and we were all squished like sardines in an effort to see the Pope up close, get a really good picture, or even touch him. He didn’t end up coming down the aisle though. Every group visiting the Vatican was recognized and introduced by a Cardinal in their native tongue, and many sang songs or delivered short performances for the Pope – many of these people had traveled great distances and waited much of their lives for this moment, but this took a very long time. The Pope raised his hand in benediction to every one of them. The Pope then delivered a short message on unity, but he had to deliver it in about 7 or 8 different languages, so it also took quite a while, but it was worth it. At the end, he blessed everyone and every holy object in the room. I was sitting just across the room from one of the most powerful and influential men in the world, seeing him with my own two eyes, and hearing his voice in person with my own two ears. It was definitely pretty cool, but it was easy to see that he had an incredibly demanding job, and he was doing an amazing job of it, despite the fact that he was in his eighties. He has certainly led an accomplished life.
After hearing the Pope speak, we split up, and Genevieve and I had lunch together under one of the pillars of the Vatican. We then decided to visit the Vatican Museum, but as we walked there we had a bit of a disagreement. There was a little problem that we couldn’t do anything about, and she swore a bit over it. Now I don’t mind if every now and then someone says a swear word in anger or frustration, but she was swore quite a bit by my standards, and after over a week together it was starting to wear on me a bit, and I simply told her that it wasn’t worth swearing over. I don’t think a foul mouth is necessary, and it’s really sad to see a lady with a foul mouth. (Sheryl had one also) Anyway, she got defensive right away and said that I had no right to ask her to stop swearing or change the way she behaves. She said that she was a grown woman and had much more wisdom and experience than I did (which is probably true, as she is 10 years older than me), that she wouldn’t change the way she was just because something that she did bothered me, and she told me that if I didn’t the way she acted that I should just not hang around with her anymore. She said that she felt really judged by me, and that I was a bit of an embarrassment. I was really hurt by that, because I had been trying really hard to be nice and had put up with a lot that I didn’t agree with simply to be agreeable. I couldn’t understand why she thought I was an embarrassment (just because of my backpacking ways) when she was the lesbian who swore and complained a lot. I think our society is really screwed up if a person is accepted for swearing and complaining and doing whatever they feel like with their sexuality, and another person is rejected for wearing somewhat dirty and ripped clothes because that is all they have, and for eating food whenever they can get it because they are really hungry. We’re allowing the root of the plant to die for lack of nourishment because we’re too busy trying to polish the leaves. Anyway, I told her that if she felt I was being judgmental it was because I was trying to understand where I stood. I am really trying to find where to draw the line between just accepting a person for whoever they are and whatever they do, and setting a standard that you will not back down from. I had grown tired of continually relaxing my standards for Genevieve’s sake, and had basically told her where I drew the line. She felt judged, and I felt bad for making her feel that way, so I apologized. I was feeling really drained by her company though, and knew that something would have to change. It is difficult to be proactive around really reactive people, it is difficult to be happy around people who are complaining about how bad things are, and it is difficult to feel good in your conscience when you are around people who are swearing and talking about things that you believe to be inappropriate and won’t stop even when you politely ask them to. I hope I am not coming off as sounding self-righteous and arrogant, etc., because anyone who knows me knows that I am far from perfect myself, and have no right to ‘cast stones’ at anyone else, but I do try to surround myself with people who make me want to be a better person, etc. I know the valuable of good company, and I know the danger of bad company. I am not saying that Genevieve was necessarily bad company, but we were just two people going different directions. Anyway, we walked through the Vatican Museum together for a while, and we spent about an hour in the Sistine Chapel (it wasn’t allowed to take any pictures, so I didn’t), and since she had never read the Bible, I spent most of the hour explaining to her the stories behind the paintings and telling her about God and Jesus, etc. It was really cool, and gave the Chapel added meaning to me. As it is, the simple picture of God and Adam reaching towards each other across time and space is probably my favorite scene in all of art, and it was so cool to behold it with my own eyes. Great times! We then split up though, and I could hardly walk straight because I was still feeling so sick, so I rushed through the museum, spent a little time in front of ‘The School Of Athens’, and then left, and then took the metro back to the hostel. A few things happened on the way back that were really frustrating, and I was simply a man on a mission to get back before I lost it. I realized that no matter how awful I was feeling, I would still only pass this way but once, and should make the most of it, so I made every effort that I could to be kind and smile at the people I saw, even though they were pushing, shoving, and hurling mean words on the subway, etc. After stumbling my way back to the hostel I napped and unwound myself for a couple hours, letting out my frustrations from the past couple weeks in a deep and personal talk between myself and God, and I did a lot of thinking as. I made a few decisions about what I would do, and was able to start feeling a bit better. My friend from Minnesota (his name was Allen) came back after a while and we talked some more about hockey, cheering my Canadian soul. I have rarely met other people who have studied hockey at the level that I have. Back in my late adolescent/early teenage years, I used to do weekly graphs of the stats of my favorite hockey players, I would spend hours memorizing the weekly and yearly stats of all the players on all of the teams, I spent my money collecting hockey cards, and I spent my spare time reading hockey encyclopedias, playing hockey, watching hockey, and talking hockey. I haven’t done much of that in the past 5 years, but it is still one of my favorite pastimes and ‘weaknesses’, and I still retain and maintain much of the knowledge, and keep myself up to date. Anyway, Allen also ‘bled hockey’, and we got along great, bouncing history and stats off of each other, making predictions, and talking about the ins and outs of ‘the great frozen game’. Like I said, I felt right at home and in my element. I also met some Colombians who were living and studying in London and traveling around, and they shared some food with me as we talked and hung out for a while, and then I did a bunch of hostel research online. I am not able to book anything ahead of time because I don’t have a credit card, so I have to just show up and hope that there is a spot available for me (I have been very fortunate thus far), but I do check ahead of time to research names, addresses, prices, etc. if I can, because I quickly got tired of starting completely from scratch when I got to a place, especially if I got there late. The hostel that I was staying at – The Roma Inn – was a bit messy and disorganized, but it was a really easygoing, friendly, and trusting place, and I liked it there. I met with Genevieve that evening (she came about an hour later than she said she would meet me, but I was used to it already), and she told me that she had decided to probably spend another night in Rome, while I was feeling ready to move on, so we decided to split up the next day. I wasn’t really enjoying myself being around her, and I don’t think she was really enjoying herself being around me either, so I think it was for the best. I felt a little bad for leaving her alone in Rome (she hadn’t done any real backpacking before and was a little nervous), but you have to learn somehow, and I felt that she would be better off just feeling free to do as she pleased without feeling judged by me, even though I wasn’t intending to be judgmental. The Bible even says that ‘it isn’t wise for two oxen to be unequally yoked’, and that’s what we were. It was probably mostly my fault, because I know I wasn’t my best self. (being really sick and tired can contribute to making anyone feel a bit ‘down’, and it’s never really fun to be around a person who is sick) I hope that it doesn’t sound like I am bashing Genevieve, because she is a great girl and I learned a lot of good things from her that I am applying in my own life right now, and she was very kind to let me travel with her and stay with her friends, but I am just trying to tell the story ‘in my shoes’ as I saw things at the time. I also don’t have time to be really politically correct, since I am rushing to get the blog posting finished before I leave Athens. I apologize if I offend anyone or if I seem disorganized and unclear, but as I said, I must sacrifice several things in order to tell at least part of my story within the constraints that I have. Thank-you so much for bearing with me, dear reader, and hopefully reading this is valuable to you in some way.
Anyway, I got a good sleep, and, feeling a bit better the next morning, I packed up and headed to the train station, got a ticket to Naples, and then walked the streets of Rome one last time while I waited for my train to leave. It was a beautiful ride to Naples, and I marveled at the extremes of sea, city, farm, hill, and mountain all juxtaposed beside each other. Once reaching Naples (formerly the Roman city of Neapolis) I took the metro to the far side of the city and walked to a hostel sort of built into a cliff. I had noticed lots of little children staring at me everywhere with a sort of far-off look in their eyes, and it seemed to me as if they were dreaming of the day when they too would be wandering adventurers trekking across the globe and leaving their mark on distant places. It was cool to see things in perspective that way. Anyway, once I got settled in at the hostel I asked where I could find the best pizza in Italy (Naples claims to have it, since Naples is the birthplace of pizza), and I was given vague directions to little shop in a back alley in the center of the city, so I set out to find it and taste the best pizza in Italy, which is assumed to be the best pizza in the world. I was amazed at the things that the vendors were selling in the streets, but since Naples is renowned for its crime, I guess it’s not surprising. I was offered a very nice laptop computer with bag and accessories for 200 Euros, (I checked it for a bit, and it sure seemed like a good machine) and managed to barter it down to 50 Euros, which was sorely tempting, but I was almost completely sure that it was stolen, and didn’t feel right about buying it, so I didn’t. Anyway, after asking several people along the way, I managed to find the place, and it was definitely the best pizza I had had in all of Italy. It was huge, had great toppings, and tasted excellent, and it was just over 4 Euros. It was all baked right in front of my eyes as well, and the atmosphere in the place was really neat. After polishing it off I headed back to the hostel, wandering through side streets at night and talking with shopkeepers. Once back at the hostel I watched some soccer (I finally had the chance to watch the famous ‘Manchester United’, and they won), and I also met an Australian and a French-Canadian, and after discovering that we were all going to Pompeii, we decided to travel together for a couple days. We hit it off right away and went walking around a bit together. I was beginning to discover how much Naples and all of southern Italy were controlled by the Italian Mafia, and I was shocked to realize how dangerous it actually was there. After hearing just a few stories, I figured it would be a good idea to get out of Naples. I had planned to stay there longer, but decided to go to Pompeii the next day with the other two. We played cards for a couple hours that night with two American sisters, had a good sleep, bought a pass that gave us free transportation and archaeological site/museum access in the area for 3 days, (Pompeii was included in the area) took a short train ride to Pompeii, found the hostel there (it was one of the nicest I had yet seen, and it was cheap as well), and, as it was a beautiful day, we decided to go see the mostly excavated ruins of the old Roman city of Pompeii, which had been buried by the eruption of the nearby volcano, Mount Vesuvius, in 79 AD. We spent about 3 1/2 hours there in awe and wonder, and saw some amazing things indeed. There were human bodies in a variety of positions preserved by the quickly hardened lava for 2000 years, and so we were able to see the bodies of people encapsuled forever the way they were they day they lost their lives. We saw exactly what a Roman city looked like in the most glorious period of the Empire. We walked the streets, saw the temples, viewed the art, sat in the theatres, etc. It was an experience indeed, and it was great to share it with a couple of really great people who were easy to get along with – I loved my two new traveling companions, and we had some great conversation. After the ruins we bought some groceries, and then the two of them (the Australian was a fun and crazy guy named Barak, and the French-Canadian was a cool but ‘interesting’ fellow named Simon) went out for supper while I made myself something cheaper to eat. (I had a huge bun – about 2 feet long and quite thick – and I stuffed it with a can of cold lentils, a can of cold corn, some tomato/bologna sauce, and sprinkled it with spices, and I was so full that I wasn’t even able to finish it) I then hung out, did some reading and writing, watched some music videos on tv (Linkin Park and Evanescence, which brought back memories, since I listened to them a lot about 2-3 years ago), met some new people, and played cards with Barak and couple new American girls until midnight, then went to bed. The next morning, Barak, Simon, and I got up and took a train to a city near Mount Vesuvius, then waited for while until we were able to take a van part of the way up. It was an 8 person van, but we stuffed in with 14 people, and we bounced down narrow side streets, huge bumps and potholes, and tight mountain corners, getting to know each other, and eventually making it as far as the van could go. We then got out and began the trek to the top of the volcano. It was a cold, rainy, and ferociously windy day, but we plodded onward until we reached the summit and gazed into the pit of a volcano that destroyed a couple mighty ancient cities in only a matter of minutes. It was quite the experience. We then had an Italian lunch that we had made for ourselves under the cover of a small shelter. As I said, it was very cold though, and definitely not wise to stay up there too long, so we made our way back down after about 30-45 minutes on top. We had to be quite careful on the way down because of the fierce wind, but we all made it safely, and had a great ride back to the train station, having some intense political discussion with other people in the van and swapping adventure stories. I have found that I am consistently able to ‘take the prize’ wherever I am with my stories, which is cool, but I have definitely heard some great adventures. Back at the station, Barak and I decided to go to an archaeological museum in Naples, while Simon went to science museum (he is a physics teacher). We took a bus through the streets of Naples, seeing a bit more of the city, and wandered through the museum for a couple hours, seeing actual Egyptian mummies (real preserved feet showing through the sarcophagus – coffin), as well as treasures from Pompeii and Herculaneum. (the other Roman city that Vesuvius buried) Once finished in the museum we headed back to the hostel, and a big group of Italian youths started talking to me. I think they liked my blonde hair, and at least one of the girls was trying to make it clear that she liked me. (this wasn’t the first time it had happened in Italy) I enjoyed the attention, and got to know them a bit, which was cool. Back at the hostel, Barak and I talked for a bit, I watched some more tv (much of it was in Italian, and I was really starting to like some of the Italian music – very beautiful, and the Italian language was just very nice in general. It was one of my instant attractions to Italy when I arrived. It is very similar to Spanish.), and then had supper by myself when Barak and Simon went out again (they had a much larger budget than I, which put some distance between us, and at least Barak liked to go out partying at night – something most of the fellow travelers I had met liked to do, and so it was hard to find a fellow traveler with a budget and interests similar to mine. They were all nice, though. Anyway…), but Barak took me out to play pool with him when he came back. Him and I got along especially well together. We got an early sleep that night, and I got up really early in the morning, caught a train to Naples, and from there, caught a train to Bari on the east coast of Italy. It was 4 hour ride across central Italy, and during a 2 hour stop in a train station on the way I had a great time writing poetry. I was now feeling basically completely recovered from my cold and everything else, and was feeling great! I think everyone can identify with that feeling you get when you wake up and know that you are better, and you are so happy that you just can’t describe it, but you jump out of bed singing a happy tune, and the sky is bluer than it has been in days, etc., and you can’t help bursting with joy inside. Anyway, I was definitely feeling good. Once I reached Bari I took a bus to the port (I was planning on taking a ferry from Bari to Patras, Greece that night – it was free with my Eurail pass), but discovered that, contrary to their internet advertising and the schedules that came with my pass, there was no ferry running that evening (Sunday), so I was suddenly without a place to stay for the night. It was a little annoying, but I knew that it was all part of an exciting adventure, and it was hard to break my spirits, so I set out to find a place for the night, walking around the city and talking to people. There was no hostels in Bari though, and the best deal I could find for a pension (a cheap hotel) was between 35 and 45 Euros per night, so I decided I would see if I could find a floor somewhere to sleep on. There were some people at a Turkish Kebap restaurant that were really helpful, but after asking around, I found that the train station was supposed to be open all night, so I decided to sleep with my sleeping bag in the sitting room. I had some food at the Turkish Kebap shop (kebaps are basically pitas filled with vegetables and meat shaved off of a huge spinning stick of meat), and talked with owners about Italy and Turkey, as well as several other things (it was a family run shop, and it was really neat), and then went back to the train station. Since it was open all night, it appeared to also be the sleeping place for the homeless people and prostitutes of the city, and I knew that I would be in for a bit of a rough night. The people from the street that were making their way in there were filthy and suspicious looking (there were scantily clad, ugly-looking, and mean old ladies coughing up phlegm on the floor, there were rough-looking men flirting with the prostitutes, and of course, there were prostitutes. A couple of them attempted to get friendly with me, but I was very guarded. I did share my food and talked with one older one who looked a bit lonely – then again, they all looked a bit hurting and lonely.), but, since the water hadn’t worked in the Pompeii hostel, I was looking a bit disheveled and dirty myself. I did some writing, and then decided, for safety’s sake, to put all of my valuable things into one of my bags and to pay a few Euros to put it in safety storage for the night. By the looks of the crowd in the station, I figured that someone would probably attempt to rob and/or fight me at some point during the night, and in case they won, I didn’t want to end up losing anything dear to me. I wasn’t worried – I had come to expect the unexpected and knew I could handle myself. I had definitely gained a lot of confidence so far, and had really began to find my groove. I was learning how to survive as a backpacker, and it required caution, calm, courage, confidence, and patience – being casual, silent, and guarded while waiting for others to make the first move. I had to be much less friendly and open than I usually am, and I put up a ‘rough cowboy’ image, but people still seemed to find me very likable, and I was able to almost instantly click with any traveler or local I came across. The best way I could probably describe what I am like right now (at least in risky and/or new situations) would be Aragorn from ‘The Fellowship Of The Ring’, when he is sitting at a table in a dark corner of the bar in Bree, with long hair, weatherbeaten and unshaven face, sword at his side, and cloak pulled high covering his face with shadow. He’s a bit mysterious, but is good and safe to trust, and knows how to handle himself. Perhaps that is a slightly too idealist and romantic portrayal of myself, but I am now generally quite guarded, tough and hesitant to fully trust others, confident but careful, loyal and trustworthy to a proven friend, rather long hair, weatherbeaten and whiskered face, lean and muscular body, a slow and somewhat drawling voice, rugged but gentlemanly manner, hardened nature (I have seen a LOT, much of which might make most people shudder, and most of which I haven’t mentioned and probably won’t) with my black leather cowboy hat, my jacket pulled high up to my face, hiking boots, worn clothes, calm, take-it-in-stride attitude, keen and searching eyes, and knife at my side. It’s hard to say how much I have changed, and in what ways, until I come back home and try to adjust to life as it is in a comfortable place, but I know I have definitely matured a lot (I haven’t even shared half of my stories of daring and adventure, and lessons learned along the way) and gained a lot of new experience and depth of character, and in many ways left a boy, and will come back a man. Ultimately, I’m still Jonathan Dueck, and my faith in God has helped me a lot. There is nothing like the comfort, peace, and hope that reading the Bible and talking with God gives, and He has blessed me so much. Because of Him, I know that I have changed for the better, and not for the worse. Anyway, I then laid out my sleeping bag on few seats, and with a couple layers of clothes for warmth on the cool night, a little money and my passport inside my sock on the bottom of my shoes, and my swiss army knife close at hand in my pocket, I cautiously laid down to sleep for a few hours. I was awoken by some train station guards at about 1 am and we were all told to leave for 2 hours while they cleaned the station. I wasn’t expecting this, so I went out onto the street and sat on a bench to take a careful nap, but was joined by the prostitute (at least I felt safe in assuming that she was a prostitute) who I had shared my food with, and we carried on a very broken conversation in Italian and English. I don’t think that she ‘had it all together in her head’, but she was a bit old and looked like she needed someone to protect her that night, so I decided to take her under my wing. A lady is a lady and should be protected and respected by any decent man, no matter what state she is in. I let her sit beside me, and we kept each other company, trying to each catch a little sleep. We were joined by a drunk man who seemed to have just gotten himself wasted at a bar, and he talked to me in his drunken manner (he actually spoke a bit of English, which I found rare in Bari), but it was pretty confused conversation. Eventually he left, but it was getting quite cold, so my prostitute friend and I went into a different part of the train station which we found unlocked, and sat on some steps, leaning against the wall in relative warmth. When it was about 3 am we went back to the sitting room, but it was now so full that there wasn’t really room for both of us, so I let her have a seat there while I went and slept on the floor in front of a magazine stand until about 5:30 am, then got up and sat in the sitting room for about an hour and a half, collected my luggage from the safety storage, and walked to the port, singing happy songs (I was so grateful to have safely made it through the night and into this beautiful day), sitting down in a park to read my Bible, walking some more, sitting down next to a really neat castle and reading some more, reaching the port and cleaning myself up (brushing my teeth, combing my greasy and messy hair, etc.) in the bathroom at the port office, waiting for an hour or so until the office opened up and reading Thoreau’s ‘Walden’ while I waited, getting a deck passage ticket on the ferry at 8 pm that evening from Bari to Patras (It would normally have cost about 150 Euros, but because I had an Eurail Pass, I only needed to pay 10 Euros for port taxes, so that alone was basically a third of what I paid for the pass, and I still got 15 days of train riding in addition to the ferry and other bonuses – definitely worth it, although my second-class ticket only got me deck passage on the ferry, so I would have another interesting night, but hey, it’s all part of an amazing and unforgettable adventure! I’m loving every minute of it!), then I went out and sat on a bench while watching the waves of the mighty Meditteranean wash over the rocks of the shoreline, and I pondered and napped for a while in the sunshine. I then walked through the old and genuine Italian area of Bari, and that was one of the neatest experiences that I had in all of Italy. I talked with friendly shop owners and bought some fruit, etc., and out of kindness they gave me more than I payed for (all the world was right, and everyone seemed to be good and happy, and it was a just plain great day to be alive, as usual.), and I also wandered down side streets with families talking in their doorways, beautiful Italian girls hanging out the morning’s wash to dry on the balconies of tall houses and singing along to their old Italian radios, etc. It was such a neat experience, and I could’ve spent weeks there. I treated myself to a gelato and a little pudding dessert that morning, and also stopped into a nice little pizzeria for lunch, where I had by far the best pizza I’ve eaten in all of Italy (just a simply pizza with spices, a very nice thin crust, sauce, cheese, and spicy sausages, but somehow it was just amazing), and definitely one of the best in my life. I then checked my e-mail in a little internet cafe, and found that a bunch of complications had occured with seemed to throw all of my plans for the summer out of the window, and that came as a bucket of cold water to the face, but I decided to just take it in stride and not let it ruin the beautiful day, so I left and went for a stroll, eventually sitting down in a park and writing some letters to my family, and just doing some thinking. I realized that there was a reason my plans had gone up in smoke, and I was confident that somehow there was a better option in store – I just needed to be patient and wait for it. As I thought I remembered some other options that I already had, and I started to get excited about the summer again – it was going to be great no matter what happened, and I was really grateful that I had been able to step away from my plans and look at things in perspective again, and I realized I had been getting a bit selfish, greedy, and high on myself because of the opportunity I had landed, so it was a real blessing to be humbled again, and to realize that money wasn’t the important thing. Anyway, after doing some thinking and writing, I went through a big process to mail an envelope and some postcards back home, (by the way, I’m really sorry to everyone that I had hoped to write a lot of letters to – I just haven’t gotten around to it, and have only got a few postcards together, so hopefully you’ll understand and not be too disappointed) and had to wait in line at a ticketed queu in the post office, then spend a fair bit of time walking around to find a place that sold letters since the post office didn’t, then wait in line again, (I don’t mind waiting in line – I’m just sharing the story) then they wanted to charge me about 30 Euros to send one small letter to Canada, but I worked with them and they were helpful, so that I ended up paying less than 5 Euros. I then bought a few groceries, went back to the internet cafe but the computers wouldn’t work (they had trouble the first time too), had a gelato that ended up being the best gelato I had had in all of Italy (I guess Bari makes great food) made my way to the ferry and boarded, and instantly made friends with a guy from Argentina named Ignatio, as well as an American named Rob (I had actually helped him out at the train station the night before when he ran into the same ferry misunderstanding as I had), and we spent several hours talking together, and then hung out with an older American guy and his sister Jackie. He had a first class Eurail pass, which allowed him to sleep inside in the warm dorms in a bed with a shower, etc., and since the ship was pretty empty, he offered to let us come and sleep inside the dorm in a bed, since the ship staff would never know the difference, etc. I thanked him for his offer, but told him straight up that I wouldn’t feel right using something that I hadn’t technically paid for and had to turn him down for integrity’s sake, and besides, how could I pass up the opportunity to sleep outside on a ship crossing the Meditteranean at night – that is priceless! (now I certainly don’t have perfect integrity, and will be the first to admit it, but I am trying) Rob took him up on the offer and spent a night in comfort, but Ignatio decided to sleep out on the deck with me. We watched the ship leave port a bit behind schedule, and then watched as we glided through the ocean for a bit. The ferry was quite empty, which I am sure was due mostly to the time of year, but I was kind of glad for the peace and quiet. I went to the front of the ship and lost myself in thought as the cold night wind beat against my face. I thought about all the lives that had been lost in the mysterious depths of the Meditteranean, all the battles that had been won and lost, all the fates and empires that had been decided there, all the heroes that had been made and unmade, all the kindness that had been shown, all the life that had been provided, and all that still remained to be done, and how I was now able to stare at those same dark waters that nurtured the western world. It was a neat experience. I dropped a Euro penny into the water as a sort of tribute, and I watched the stars, which could be seen so clearly with no light around and the wind keeping the sky free of clouds, and there on the deck of the ferry I sang worship to God, as I love to do. I had some catching up on my journals to do, but my hands were too cold to write, so once it got too late to do much else, I bundled up with 4 shirts, a jacket, a toque (a beanie for all of my American friends), 2 pants, etc., and my sleeping bag, and I slept on a bench on the deck until about 4 am, when one of the staff took pity on us, woke us up, and let us come and sleep in the warm hallway, where I slept until about 7:30 am. I then spent the morning watching the Greek Islands gleaming in the sun as we passed them, thinking in silence, writing, talking with my friends on the ship, walking around the deck, and eventually landing in Patras at about noon. Once there we found our way to the train station and got tickets (they got tickets to Athens, and I, to Corinth), and then walked around the city until we found a square with a bench to sit down. We sat there for about an hour in the warmest sunshine I have felt yet in Europe, and we watched people (I really enjoyed their company), rested, and just took it easy, talking casually and soaking things in. It was really nice. We then made our way back to the train station and took the train for a couple hours to Corinth, where I got off and started looking around for a hostel that I had found online. I walked the streets of infamous Corinth, talking to people as I went (the Greek people spoke some of the best English in all of Europe, or so I have found, and everyone seems to know at least some, unlike most other European countries), and eventually finding where the hostel was supposed to be, but no matter how hard I searched the area, I couldn’t find it. Some kind people in a business even did some phoning around for me, and apparently the hostel didn’t exist. I hadn’t found it on a trusted website anyway, so it made sense. I checked out a couple other places for accomodation, but they were out of my budget, so I decided to take the train to Athens for the night. I waited a while at the train station, but fortunately there was a train going to Athens in the near future, so I took that to another station in Corinth, and then took a train from there to Athens. On the ride I met a couple people, and one guy was really helpful, offering to go with me part of the way to my hostel, since it would be dark when we arrived in Athens and several people had warned me about the city at night. He seemed on the level, although I don’t think he quite understood what I wanted to do. Like I said though, he was nice, and gave me a phone card, got off with me at the stop I needed, helped me get a metro ticket (I could’ve done this on my own, as I’ve gotten used to figuring out places fairly quickly, but it was still nice to have that much less to worry about, and I had been feeling a bit sick and dizzy all day anyway – not too much good sleep in the past couple nights, so I wasn’t in the best state of mind), told me where to go, and made me promise to remember him (his name was Leonidas) and help him if he was ever in Canada, we talked a bit, he gave me some advice about the city, and we parted. I then rode the metro (it was much better than the metro in Rome) to Ommonia Square (a rather infamous place), where I walked around a bit but couldn’t find much help (I couldn’t make out the Greek characters, so I couldn’t tell which street the hostel I wanted was on, and no one there knew, so I eventually took the metro to Larissa station, (the main station in Athens) and after talking with the station master, found where the hostels were, so I took another metro to the station he told me to go to, and with help from some kind locals, started asking around at different hostels until I found what seemed to be the best deal. I settled in, then walked around until I found a genuine Greek restaurant, where I had the classic Greek ‘gyro’ which I had heard a fair bit about. It was very similar to a Turkish kebap, and was very good. I then went back to the hostel and got to know my room-mates. There was a traveling musician/photographer from France named Ghirlain, who had also split up with his original traveling companion, a guy from China studying in America and traveling in Greece named Yang, and a girl from Germany whose name I don’t remember. I instantly hit it off with the Chinese guy, and he spoke excellent English. He was very energetic and easy to be around, and very friendly and intelligent as well. We talked a lot about China and I learned so much from his insider perspective, and we also talked about travels, etc. I have rarely met someone so nice or genuinely interested in what I had to say (at least on my travels), and he was a breath of fresh air. Both him and Ghirlain traveled the same way as me also, living cheap and making their own food, and neither of them did the partying/drinking thing which was so prevalent among almost every traveler I had met, so I really enjoyed their company and felt a bit of a bond with them. I had a good sleep that night after using the free internet, and the next morning went to the hostel cafe next door for a 4 Euro all-you-can-eat breakfast, and was pretty much in heaven for 2 hours. (I hadn’t eaten much of anything the previous day, and I had 3 or 4 full plates of food for breakfast – all kinds of food, both American and Greek, and easily the best breakfast that I have eaten in Europe) I spent most of the day writing this blog at the hostel and just relaxing, but staring at a screen all day got to me a bit and I had to stop, so I hung out in my room, and when Ghirlain got back he shared some supper that he had made with me, and we talked about travels. He had been all over Spain, Africa, and Turkey playing music for money, etc., and had some really cool stories. He pulled out his guitar and played for me, and then I took a turn, and he enjoyed the stuff I had written so much that he asked me to just keep on playing, and eventually pulled out some bongos, and we just jammed together. We were joined by Yang partway through, and he got right in the thick of it as well. He was giving background vocals, (I also played some popular songs) and taking turns with Ghirlain on the bongos, and it was the most fun I could remember having in a while. We were all laughing and having a great experience making music together, representing the styles of 3 different continents. It was awesome! Ghirlain then played some music on his guitar (the guy is an incredible soloist, and had me rocking out on the floor with a tin pot and a spoon in no time while Yang played the bongos – it was so much fun!), and we were blown away by how good he was. We all talked for a while afterwards, and I had regained so much zest and excitement by being around the two of them – it was great, and they were such a blessing in my life. We were eventually joined by a new room-mate, a girl from Japan, and she was pretty rude, but I suppose it would be a little frightening for her to be in a foreign country in a room with 3 guys who she had no idea if she could trust, so it was fine. I had a good sleep that night, and Yang and Ghirlain left in the morning while I ate another big breakfast and worked some more on my blog, but the ferry Yang was going to take to the Greek islands didn’t work out and so he came back, and we decided to go exploring Athens together. We took a metro to Acropolis, and while walking to the hill we met up with Ignatio from the ferry, so I introduced the two of them and we walked together for a while, but he had already been this way, so he left us to do some other exploring. It cost me 12 Euros to get in, but it was amazing! Yang and I were completely blown away, and walked around the top of the small hill quite spellbound for an hour. I met some rockstars from a group called ‘Trail of Dead’, and talked with them for a bit. They were doing a big European tour and invited me to come to their show at a club the next night, (and basically get a little VIP treatment on the side) but I didn’t think it would be the most wholesome atmosphere (they were already surrounded by a few ‘roadie’ girls, and their name suggested music that would attract a very violent and dangerous crowd, most likely with drugs and weapons, etc.), and so I didn’t plan on going. Yang and I were almost like two people with one mind (or so it seemed to me), because he kept suggesting just what I was thinking, and vice versa, and we ended up sitting in front of the Parthenon for a while and just thinking and talking, and eventually, singing. I sang a couple John Denver songs, he sang a couple Asian songs and couple popular songs, and together we sang ‘What A Wonderful World’ and ‘Hey Jude’ by the Beatles. It was one of the neatest and coolest experiences of my life – a short guy from China and a tall guy from Canada, standing on top of the Acropolis hill, staring at the Parthenon, surrounded by the gleaming white city of Athens in all directions, hearts and minds full of wonder and deep thoughts, with mountains and sea in all directions, tourists all around, and sun shining on it all, and together singing ‘What A Wonderful World’ and ‘Hey Jude’. I loved it, and it was awesome! We then made our way down and climbed Mars Hill, also known as the Aereopagus, where the Apostle Paul in the Bible had delivered his ‘Altar to The Unknown God’ address to the Athenian people. (found in Acts 17:16-34) If you guessed that I decided to do the same thing, you would be right. I busted out my Bible and read those verses aloud atop Mars Hill (it was also the place where capital punishment cases used to be tried. Anyway…), and Yang enjoyed it, as he hadn’t read the Bible. (most of you probably know that religion is discouraged in China) We then wandered down a beautiful slope lined covered with trees, rocks, grass, and flowers, and the way the sun shone on it was picture perfect. After walking around a bit more, we took a metro to the Parliament Building and grounds, arriving just in time to watch the famous changing of the guard. The costumes were a little funny-looking, especially the shoes, but it was cool. There was a massive protest being staged when we got there though, and that was the really impressive thing. Thousands of people (mostly students) were marching down the streets with signs, flags, drums, and loudspeakers, and all chanting and shouting, and the military was out, surrounding the Parliament with soldiers armed with shields, guns, batons, and some sort of grenades. (I assumed it was tear gas, but they were holding them at the ready) I learned from some bystanders that the people were protesting a government bill that was in the process of turning the country’s free public universities into private ones in an effort to improve quality. Apparently they were staging protests at least a couple times a week, and last week there had been some violence when they stormed the Parliament, fighting guards and setting some things on fire, so there was extra caution right now. It was quite the experience, and it was evident that we were on the cusp of a possible storm. The protest passed by harmlessly however, with only a bit of shouting at each other between the sides. Yang and I then went out for some Greek food (more gyros and a Greek salad), and, after that, took the metro (it took us a little while to find our way) to Lycabettus Hill, (as close as we could get) where we walked through the dark streets until we reached some stairs, and we took these up for quite a ways, and then zigzagged on a path up the hill (there were trees and a lot of suspicious areas, as well as quite a few stray cats, and Yang was a little afraid, but I was used to this sort of thing and did my best to set his mind at ease. I knew I would do my best to take care of us if we were jumped, and if it wasn’t enough, then there wasn’t much I could do about it, so I didn’t worry), eventually making it up, quite sweaty, but successful after a good climb. It was a good opportunity to talk about what matters in life, and Yang was brilliant, (he as only 20, but had won an EXTREMELY difficult scholarship to a very good east coast University, as well as many national intellectual competitions, and was probably one of the brighter young minds in China) so we had great discussions. On top of the hill we had the opportunity to see Athens at night, and spent a while just taking it in. There was a Chapel just behind us as well, which was pretty nice, and we also saw some soldiers taking down a Greek flag. We then walked back down and took the metro to the hostel area, did some grocery shopping, and split up. (he had to get a room at a different hostel for that night) Back at the hostel, I found that my two new dorm-mates were an American girl and a Chinese girl, so I talked with them for a bit, and then went upstairs to the lounge area to check my e-mail and do some hostel research. I wasn’t sure if I would be staying another night, so I wanted to be prepared for my next city. I wrote some poetry for a while, did my work on the internet, and met some really nice girls while I was up there (all American – one from Washington state, and 3 from New Jersey, although none of them previously knew each other. I had met a lot of Minnesotans in Rome, and had now met an lot of Jersey girls in Athens. Anyway…), and we had some of the best discussion that I had had in a while about a bunch of different things. One thing that I end up talking a lot about here is American politics, notably the upcoming election. We also talked a lot about the gay marraige issue, religion, travels, life, etc., and there was one girl that I found myself seeing eye-to-eye on a lot of important things with. Her views on religion, morality, etc., were nearly identical to my own, she was really nice, had been going through some hard times after being ditched by some mean ‘friends’ (rich Enlish girls who were embarrassed by her company, etc.), and she was pretty in a ‘down home cute’ sort of way. She was basically the first girl that I had met on my adventure who I was actually attracted to, and, it therefore pretty much goes without saying, the coolest girl I had met on my trip as well. There have been a lot of physically pretty girls, but that isn’t what really gets me about a girl (physical beauty is important to me as well though) – it’s much deeper than that, and this girl (her name was Jenna, and she was just under a year older than me) had it. We talked until about 2 am in the hostel lounge, and it was pretty much a perfect evening, leaving me feeling quite fulfilled. One really cool thing was the way that Jenna and I set the tone for the conversation that the 5 of us were having. Our views on morality were very similar, as I have said, (she doesn’t do the drinking/partying thing, etc.) and when a couple of the girls tried to tip the conversation in the direction of swearing, drinking, etc., Jenna and I didn’t really follow along, so it was unconsciously felt that such topics weren’t cool, and it all stayed clean. Instead, it was unconsciously recognized that it was cool to stay home and talk rather than to drink, to watch clean movies about the beauty of life and living in the moment rather than crude garbage, etc. I am sure that I had a lot of influence in the room, being the only guy among 4 girls, but I don’t think I even did it intentionally – I just stuck with my standards, and since everyone has a natural desire to be accepted, they almost unconsciously shifted what they said so that it would be acceptable. I don’t think I am doing a very good job of explaining of what I mean, but I am just trying to say that we have increbible power in a very subtle way to shape the direction of a conversation almost unconsciously, and that was something I did a bit of thinking about. Anyway…I had a good sleep, had another huge and awesome breakfast, and basically spent most of today writing on my blog as well. While here in Athens I discovered that indeed a better opportunity for the summer did come up – along the same lines but better, and it looks like things will work out better than I had expected. We’ll see how it all goes, but I know that things will work out – they always do, and better than we could ever imagine, although it can be difficult to see it at the time. I think that human beings have a bit of a tendency to be near-sighted (I don’t mean physically), which can get a lot of us in trouble sometimes, but it also has tremendous potential to be a great blessing to us, since it gives us an opportunity to develop faith, hope, and trust. Our ‘weaknesses’ also have the potential to be our strengths.
Anyway, I am so grateful to you, dear reader, for sticking with me on this adventure. I know that it probably requires a bit of effort for you to sit down and read what I have written in the midst of your busy life with so many things to do, but I am so grateful that you have taken the time to do so. I am sure that there will be punctuation and spelling errors, that I may have said some things without thinking them through very well, that there are few proper paragraphs, that I haven’t said everything quite the way I wanted it to be said, etc., but I ask you to forgive me – necessity drove me such that I haven’t able to make this ‘polished’ (I haven’t even read over it myself – just wrote it out), and it is probably evident when I have stopped and started again, and it is also probably evident that it was written over a span of 3 days and seems to speed up and taper off at points. It is the way it is though, and this is the way it happened as best as I can describe it for the time being. The fact that I am posting it is evidence enough that I stick by it. This is a taste of what it feels like to walk in my shoes, through good and bad. I am not perfect, I don’t always make the wisest choices, I am not always proactive, I get sick and annoying too, and I am ultimately human, but I am growing and learning a ton, and God has blessed me with some amazing experiences, as well as some great opportunities to serve, and I am indeed grateful. Life is so good and amazing! It is a great day to be alive – let’s go out and make the most of it! I am so grateful for all of your prayers, comments, inspiration, and all of the happy memories I have with each and every one of you – I have recalled many of them on this adventure, and am grateful for the joy that they bring to me. I appreciate you all so much, and have realized in a new way how important you all are to me since I have been without you. I look forward to seeing you again (as many of you as I can, hopefully) in just over a month. I am planning on being back in Edmonton on April 18th. We’ll see how it all goes though. Today is Friday, March 16, 2007. Tomorrow I am planning on going to Thessaloniki, and in another day or two, to Istanbul, and we’ll see what happens from there. I have a basic plan, but those often change, as I have learned. Anyway, thank-you all again for everything that you do, and keep on being your amazing selves. Keep on learning and growing, and making the world a better place, as you all do so well – you are amazing! It doesn’t matter how slowly you are moving so much as the fact that you are moving forward, and helping each other to move forward as well. We are all in this life together, and I think I can safely say that we are, in our own ways, fighting for the same cause, no matter where on this earth we are. Thanks again for everything. This is Jon signing off. Take care, God bless, rock on, and be the change…
Your friend,
Jonathan Dueck